Wayne Gabb, viticulturist of coastal estate Lomond Wines, and also general manager of the 1 100 ha property, believes his first responsibility is to increase the organic matter in the soil before tackling his vines.

"We give life to the soil, inoculating it with beneficial micro-organisms and increasing the organic matter, which helps to create an environment that promotes the self-induced resistance of the plants to the risk of disease. This approach is enhanced by a predator release programme that allows insects to feed off otherwise destructive pests."

It’s an attitude to farming that has not only helped to earn Lomond membership of the Biodiversity and Wine Initiative (BWI) for protecting the environment and conserving the indigenous habitat but has played a key role in the estate’s fast-growing reputation for award-winning Sauvignon blanc.

Situated 34˚ 34' south, near Gansbaai, Lomond is one of very few wineries with a Cape Agulhas District appellation. It is just 8 kilometres from the sea as the crow flies and is cooled by south-west and south-east winds that blow during the summer months.

"This helps to create an environment that is cooler on average than Elgin but with less day and night-time temperature variation. The farm also has the advantage of naturally occurring indigenous vegetation and low hills to act as a filter for the salt-laden sea air. With its varying terrain and low-vigour soil types and the opportunity to plant vines with different aspects and elevations, we had found the ideal site for Sauvignon blanc."

He does stress that other varietals fare well here too, including Syrah, Merlot, Mourvėdre, Viognier and Semillon.

The wines are made by Kobus Gerber.

"Our Sauvignon blancs really come into their own after 18 months to two years. Although well scored by Platter, with five, four and-a-half and four-star ratings, the evaluations are generally based on pre-bottling samples. These wines need a bit of time to evolve and show the full extent of their complexity."

Moving into an entirely new terrain for wine, Gabb made a personal pact in establishing Lomond to keep the viticulture as "clean and green" as possible and to maintain the farm’s abundant biodiversity by setting aside 350 ha for conservation. "We didn’t want to adversely impact the soil or the dam that also serves the surrounding community and so decided to apply organic interventions as far as possible in those areas where we do cultivate vineyards. We have also chosen to farm in a way that gives maximum expression to the diversity of soil types and elevations on the farm, while protecting the indigenous habitat here."

There are 18 soil types on the property and a range of altitudes. Some have direct exposure to the sea, others have a mountain aspect. The intrusion of granite in the southern portion of the farm has created a unique geological formation, unlike the rest of the district, where Table Mountain sandstone and Bokkeveld shale are found. The granite-derived soils vary from gravelly ferricrete to kaolin clay, contributing to the complexity of fruit flavours expressed in the wines.

"When we mapped out the individual blocks for our single-vineyard wines we were very mindful of how we would establish each vineyard in a way that would manifest its fruit complexity. In many instances different soil types occur within very short distances, creating a micro-patchwork effect. In the Sugarbush vineyard, we have planted one clone but in the Pincushion we have two clones to provide us with the additional flavour facets."

He uses a process of leaf-breaking around the grape bunches to allow for diffuse sunlight to filter through and promote optimal ripening in summer and only applies drip irrigation where absolutely necessary "and then only on those parts of the farm that need it".

Picking is all done by hand and largely on taste, with the Sugarbush picked between 23˚B to 23,5˚B and the Pincushion a little earlier, at 22˚B to 22,5˚B. "We never harvest until we have achieved a good balance between fruit sugar and acid levels, always looking to create full, deep flavours but with a refreshing acidity."

Gabb also runs a business that provides organic interventions for all types of farming and home gardening. "Lomond provided the motivation to develop these products so we could minimise our impact. It’s an eco-motivated approach but it seems to bring out the very best in our wines."

"It is the cool breezes from the coast that allow the grapes to ripen slowly and achieve beautiful balance with intensity of flavour. We try to express the unique climate and diversity of soils in Lomond wines that gain complexity with time."
Kobus Gerber